Running your old engines from yesteryear

An open forum for questions on any control line glow engines

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Running your old engines from yesteryear

Postby viking61 » Wed Jun 20, 2007 5:39 pm

Alot of guys are getting back to UC for many resasons. Equipment is better today and models are better. Older engines if treated right can be alot of good fun. To free that old puppy up I will list a few things you can do.
1-Shoot lots of air tool oil into it and let it sit.
2- Best tool is heat gun used for monocote or similar. An old sock help you from getting burned. Heat the crank case and cylinder till engine gets real warm. Apply more oil and reheat. This should get things moving. If engine starts turing shoot in some alcohol and drain and use more oil. Remove back plate and clean with cuetip. If engine is fairly free skip this part as rear gaskets are hard to find and make. Frank Bowman makes gaskets for alot of engines.
3-BE PATIENT and don't force the engine over. Those con rods are hard to get. good luck. Dan
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Postby Frank Klenk » Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:01 am

Good post Dan. Very helpful info. Thanks.
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Follow up

Postby viking61 » Wed Jun 27, 2007 3:12 pm

After you get that oldie in shape next is what to feed it. Johnson's/Veco's OX maxs/Fox /McCoys need 25% castor. 2-3% sync. to keep clean. Why so much oil you ask? TO KEEP IT ALIVE!! SIG castor is good stuff. If you run RC cool aid you will burn them up very quickly. Some RC fuel is as low as 14% oil. If you have no choice you need to add castor oil to fuel. 1.24 oz yeids 1% oil increase. Do the math. Yes you need to remove some fuel to get it right. Add 12.4 oz and you will have 28% oil.
OK / glow plugs. Enya #3 best on planet for stunt engines. Expensive but last a loooooong time. Thunder bolt RC good. Fox -crap!! Don't use those 30-40year old plugs they will give you trouble. If you remove glow igniter and engine slows up plug is bad. Do use Sullivan crap trap filters. Those plastic junk will give you trouble. Don.t leave cap off your fuel can/ bottle when flying.
Needle valves get lost with age. ST nva's work very well and come in three sizes. Venturi's can be made fro K&S medal stock. Feel free to email if you need more info. Cheers,Dan
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Postby rcr22b » Mon Nov 26, 2007 6:25 pm

I have found that lacquer thinner will remove old varnish very easily.

Remove all the plastic/rubber parts and paper gaskets and let the engine soak for 10 minutes to 1 hour.

Then take a tooth brush to the places where there is still buildup of gum or varnish.

Use any waterbased general cleaner from HomeDepot to remove the lacquer thinner.

After that wipe all the parts dry and spray with WD-40.

There may be other good techiniques but this works well for me.
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old engines

Postby fnhaddo » Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:04 pm

I have several Johnson, K&B, Enya and OS engines from the 60's that I use on a regular basis. I use 10% nitro with 20% straight Castor oil with absolutely zero problems. I also use my R/C fuel which is Hobby Shack's "White Lightning" which I mix with Power master 10% which gives a oil content of 20%, 3/4 of which is castor.

As far as plugs go, the Enya #3 is the ONLY plug I use. However the old plugs from the 50's and 60's still work well. I have several old Testors gold plugs, dozens of Johnsons and loads of K&B's
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Postby rick32559 » Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:51 pm

use laquer thinner to de gum it and then some Marvel Oil
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Re: Running your old engines from yesteryear

Postby cjr2007 » Sun Dec 01, 2013 8:24 pm

Thanks for the info! I am also new to running "classic" C/L engines. If I can ask for some advice, I have several engines that will just 'ramp up" RPM's for a few seconds, then die off. They are clean and free of gross "goop," have plenty of fuel supply, functional glow heads, etc. It is an old Fox .15 X and an Enya .29 #5224. Any ideas? My thoughts were: clogged needle valve/venture, not "hot" enough glow head, old/leaking gaskets. And my old Gilbert Thunderhead .074 and 0.11, they won't even burp!! Thanks!

C.R.
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Re: Running your old engines from yesteryear

Postby beaslbob » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:44 pm

cjr2007 wrote:Thanks for the info! I am also new to running "classic" C/L engines. If I can ask for some advice, I have several engines that will just 'ramp up" RPM's for a few seconds, then die off. They are clean and free of gross "goop," have plenty of fuel supply, functional glow heads, etc. It is an old Fox .15 X and an Enya .29 #5224. Any ideas? My thoughts were: clogged needle valve/venture, not "hot" enough glow head, old/leaking gaskets. And my old Gilbert Thunderhead .074 and 0.11, they won't even burp!! Thanks!

C.R.



Start looking for exactly what you looking at. clogged fuel lines, crancase leaks, bad gaskets and so on.

Also be sure to check the fuel line to insure you're not getting bubbles. If you are then fix the bubble source before anything else.

Try sucking with the fuel line to pull out any gunk. also removing the needle valve and forcing gas through to clean it up.
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