Cleaning and Storage of Engines

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Cleaning and Storage of Engines

Postby Kim » Sat Apr 25, 2009 6:45 pm

I have embarked on the task of cleaning and storing my model engine collection. Most of the engines were in good running order up to a few years ago when the pressure of work forced me to postpone my flying activities. The engines are a mix of 2 stroke, 4 stroke and diesels. Luckily the few I have disassembled appear to be free of rust, but I intend to thoroughly clean, replace bearings and gaskets then place ino storage for use further down the line. My main question is directed to your knowledgeable members, who I have no doubt have performed this task themselves, what would they suggest as the best way to tackle this job, storge oils etc. Is it necessary to use storage oils that must be cleaned out before running at a later date? Are there oils/products that will protect the stored engine but not cause damage should the engine be run with some of it remaining after recommissioning the stored engine?
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Postby Jim Thomerson » Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:36 am

I've used Rislone for storage for maybe 10 years duration. When ready to fly just fire it up, no problem. Works fine on 2-stroke glow and diesels; no experience with four strokes. You can get Rislone at any auto supply place. It fits in with the current "green" emphasis. :roll: Do not use regular Marvel Mystry Oil as it will evaporate to hard red crud over time.
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Postby dedaddy007 » Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:56 pm

I take an engine and spray it full of WD40 and seal it in a zip lok baggie, squeezing out as much air as I can. Keeps it clean and no rust.
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Postby chiefss » Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:38 pm

Funny, I use Marvel Mystery oil for long term storage and it never evaporates to a hard red crud. Of course if you place the engine in a plastic zip loc bag it can't evaporate. Marvel airtool oil works well too. ATF is excellent but it doesn't burn so the first start is a little difficult but not all that bad. Just remove plug and hit with a starter and blow the ATF out.

To clean them I use Cheveron Hobby Products High-tech Perfect Model Engine Cleaner. CHE180. It makes them look like new. You have to disassemble the engine first.

Some guys use antifreeze in a crock pot but it will take the paint off engines like the old McCoy redhead and K&B Greenheads. It will also discolor aluminum and turn it black if too hot or left in too long.
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Postby walt » Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:08 pm

I've had very good results with ATF and/or Rislon on engines stored for years. Marvel mystry oil evaporated and left the parts very much stuck together. Don't think there was any rust tho. Probably not in totally airtight bags. Many others recommend Marvel airtool oil or most any air tool oil.
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Postby Frank Klenk » Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:07 pm

Chief

Where do you get that Chevron engine cleaner? Can you send me a sample?
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Postby dedaddy007 » Sun Apr 26, 2009 7:12 pm

Yeah, I can't find it either. Where do you get it?

Lee

MECA 5575
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Postby chiefss » Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:32 am

Bad news. I used to buy this stuff from Sheldon's Hobbies in San Jose, CA. When he went out of business two years ago I bought all that he had left. Two cases of the stuff. 60% off so I bought all he had at a real bargain price.

I use it quite often as I rebuild and repair engines and a clean engine is a lot easier to work on and put back together.

I checked yesterday on Cheveron Hobby Products on the web. Found the company that distributed their stuff. Cheveron also sold Perfect paint. They only show one color paint now. I emailed them about the engine cleaner. It is no longer sold. Bummer.

The stuff really works well. Heat it in the microwave and it takes off all grease, oil and baked on crud. Makes a muffler look new. Even takes off paint. I guess it didn't sell all that well and they quit making it.

Too bad as it was great stuff. Now I have to save as much as I can after I use it and try not to waste any.

I do know that it was a base (alkali) solution as it was slippery feeling. Oven cleaner is too. You might try diluting an oven cleaner and trying it on an engine part you aren't too worried about. Like maybe a cruddy muffler.

I'd show a picture but I can't seem to make it work.
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Postby dedaddy007 » Wed Apr 29, 2009 12:55 pm

Sheldons Hobbies has a website at www.sheldonshobbies.com. They are also on eBay.
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Postby chiefss » Wed Apr 29, 2009 5:29 pm

It ain't the same place. Ron sold out the business and his name to a new owner. Moved about a mile down the road. He has what was left of Ron's inventory after the big sale. Sale started at 40% off, the 50, and finally 60%. All that was left was stuff that no one really wanted. I bought about 20 kits, a couple dozen engines, tons of Enya glow plugs, Cox plugs, props, etc. I got two Saito 56's, a GK and reg, for $120 each. An Enya 120R for $100. 15 Asp25's for $20 each. Sold them on ebay. I got 200 Cox high Comp glow heads for a buck each. Sold them on ebay and almost made what I spent in the store. They brought at least $5 each. It was a great sale. Too bad it was a going out of business sale as Sheldon's was one of the last great hobby shops and mail order entities. Oh yeah, 40 gallons of Powermaster 10% for $5.75 a gallon.

Anyway, the new place is mostly cars and arf type stuff. It sure ain't Sheldon's hoobies anymore. The guy is barely making it. Last winter the heat wasn't even on and the place was freezing. Poor Diane had to wear a heavy coat while she worked the register.

As an aside. Ron married a Russian girl and now sells electron tubes made in Russia. The Russians are still using that technology in their Navy as well as other ventures and they have really perfected the E Tube. If any of you guys are restoring old tube type electronics, Ron is the guy to see.
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Postby Frank Klenk » Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:16 pm

Too about the Chevron cleaner. So, the ultimate engine cleaner still aludes me. I'm talking about the squirt it on and it melts off castor stains and years of build up with a wipe, plus it leaves the metal all nice and shiny. I can dream can't I? I did however pick up a can of Amsoil fogging oil today. This is used to store engines. The directions want you to squirt it into the carb while running, hence the fogging action. I rebuilt an engine tonight and used this as a prelube. Seems to coat the parts well and it doesn't slide off like Marvel oil does. I'm sure there are other fogging lubes that can be had at marine or small engine shops. I use 2 stroke Amsoil mix for my gassers, so I thought I would try this stuff.

Frank 8)
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Postby chiefss » Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:45 am

Agree with Kim? About what? He asked a question and wanted suggestions.
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Postby 10%_nitro » Sat Jun 27, 2009 10:48 pm

chiefss wrote:Agree with Kim? About what? He asked a question and wanted suggestions.

Antagonizing, isn't he?
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Postby Frank Klenk » Mon Jun 29, 2009 1:34 pm

Chief

The post you are all bent about, the "I agree with Kim" is a SPAM post (asian bride etc). Read before you post. I deleted it.

Frank
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Postby propwobble » Sun Jul 26, 2009 9:43 am

How did " agree with Kim" get into this Chief/ Frank? I don't see anything about agreeing or not agreeing with Kim. Did this thread contain asian brides at some point? Who's bent? I don't hear bent. I feel so lost!



Nitromethane does a pretty good job of dissolving old castor. Kinda pricy to use a solvent though.
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Postby chiefss » Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:03 pm

You got me. Kim asked a question in post #1 and I answered it.

Other than that I have no idea what they are talking about.
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Postby Frank Klenk » Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:52 am

All

A spam poster selling Asian brides got right in the middle of our discussion and posted that he agreed with Kim. Then it started. Chief then asked agree with what? Then I deleted the bride guy and here we are (short version). No 10% didn't make a nasty.
What the heck were we talking about now??

Frank 8)
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Postby chiefss » Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:13 am

What would you call 10%_nitro's remark where he said, "antagonizing, isn't he?" That was obviously directed at me and I found it offensive. I was not being antagonistic to anyone.

Also, I never saw any post by some asian bride type so it would have been a bit difficult to get, "bent about it". I got "bent" about 10%_nitro's comment about being antagonistic.
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Postby USMC » Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:20 pm

I remember this chiefss, there was a link to www.rcgroups.com
that went along with his comment.

Take care,
USMC & Viking...! & Little Jack...! ;)
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Postby USMC » Mon Jul 27, 2009 4:24 pm

are you listed under a diff. name at rcgroups chiefss?
it was a link to a post, but it had a diff. nick then yours.
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Postby 10%_nitro » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:11 pm

edited.
Last edited by 10%_nitro on Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:10 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Postby Frank Klenk » Tue Jul 28, 2009 5:19 am

10%
Edit your posts. Anything not related to the topic being discussed please remove.

Frank
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Postby 10%_nitro » Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:22 am

Prop...made a good point. Deleted.
Last edited by 10%_nitro on Thu Nov 05, 2009 7:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby propwobble » Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:21 am

"Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?" "That depends a good deal on where you want to get to," said the Cat. "I don't much care where--" said Alice. "Then it doesn't matter which way you go," said the Cat. "
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Postby blacksea7 » Sun Jan 03, 2010 7:12 pm

Additives put in petroleum oils seem to have, after a few years, the uncanny habit of additive breakdown... Consider this. if you're going to put the engine up, get a can of Two Stroke Fogger... same material used on outboard engines.... turn the engine over with a starter and saturate the carb end with plug in. When it's coming out the exhaust, quit spinning and put the engine in a baggie and that baggie in a baggie... reason being is petroleum products and their additives can "panel" their way through nearly any material... then put it on the shelf... works very well
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Model engine cleaner

Postby azpropnut » Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:26 pm

Look for Dawn Power Disolver. It's in a blue spray bottle in the soap and detergent aisle at your larger markets or Wal-Mart. It is a spray gel and works pretty good at cleaning the soft brown oil from a model engine. Black, baked-on oil needs a second application. Do not walk away and let it soak overnight.

Occasionally, I'll use Prestone Anti-freeze mixed with water in a crock-pot. It may take half a day of heating, but it works. Use full strength Prestone and mix with water 3-1.

Rislone oil works as a storage oil but is very expensive. Use it if you don't mind the cost. Air-tool oil is made to protect tools and doesn't gum up.
ATF is cheap and works good. It has anti corrosive and anti oxidants in it so the glow plug action is reduced unless the engine is rinsed before running. I've never had the problem so serious that an engine wouldn't start though. Most problems associated with storage oil is that it floods the glow plug and needs to be burned off before the engine will start.

Marvel oil has caused more problems for me than any other. It turns to a red sludge after a few years. I just use ATF now. A petroleum engineer friend told me Marvel Mystery oil is nothing but dyed lard oil.

Any of the thin electric motor lubricating oils are pretty good and non-detergent aircraft motor oil is good too. I'm referring to electric motors for fans, grinders, saws, etc that may have a lube port or spring cap. This is another oil that resists drying and gives good protection.

Cheers,

Propnut
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Postby Jim Thomerson » Fri Jan 22, 2010 1:44 pm

I checked the price of Rislone and found it at $5.99 for a 32 oz container. I think I paid $1.99 for the bottle I am still using. :D
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